The front-engined monsters (Nissan and Mercedes) are sluggish and understeery, the mid-engined cars (Audi, Ferrari, McLaren) have the least compliant rear axles I have come across (with unbalanced downforce to boot). I have the same experience in AC with the Z4 GT3 and somewhat with the 911 GT3-R, probably because they're the only two GT3 cars in the game with a decent default setup. Career mode is dull, whole thing feels utterly soulless and without any kind of atmosphere and it's so damn inconsistent, I just think it's an infuriating game. Then you switch car/track, its a sh*tshow again and you go back to playing GT Sport or whatever. ![]() You start off slow, you play with different levels of input and build it up lap after lap, then suddenly you can push and it's a process that feels organic and like you're playing an actual simulator rather than a videogame. I remember taking a 2013 Ferrari F1 car out at the Nordschleife was the moment where I (briefly) fell in love with this game, because up to then I hated it - couldn't drive any of the cars without loads of assists on and even then - remember trying to handle the Porsche GT1-98 and not even being able to make it round a single corner or drive in a straight line - I felt like Felipe Massa circa 2002.īut it was slowing it all down and starting to drive round really gently that kind of got me back on board, because playing around with the steering inputs, the brakes, the throttle, you realise that it's not just ON/OFF like most games (especially on a pad) you open the throttle a certain amount, it's all gradients and actually, when you 'get it' the feeling of freedom when it's just you and the empty track, is exhilarating. I guess I'll keep trying until my patience runs out and then just delete the game as I just can't get a wheel. I've never really had any problems with racing games before so I don't see what the problem is. There are other control settings and I've tried changing them but it doesn't seem to make much difference.Įven with auto gearbox, ideal racing line, traction control, ABS all on and Stability control at 100% I'm still getting blown away in the first race in the career mode. Yes,I use L2/R2 for Brake and Accelerate. In my opinion (based on Turismos) DualShock isn't accurate enough to play completely without assists so you have to find level that suits you. Other than that I can only say that try different levels of assists and stay at those that give you best speed. Between 50 and 75 works well for most cars.ĬSL Elite Wheel Base V1.1 / CSL Elite Wheel Base + / CSL Elite Racing Wheel PS4™I haven't played AC on PS4 so I can't offer any direct help but does it let you configure the controls? Do you use R2 & L2 for acceleration and braking or right stick? If this is configurable on game try the one that you are not using now if it suits you better. ![]() Podium Wheel Base DD1 / Podium Racing Wheel F1® PS4™Ĭar Specific FFB Mult: Very important to find the right value per car. Please ensure you are using the latest firmware for all Fanatec devices. ![]() In doing so you can maximise the dynamic range of the FFB but lose some of the feeling of variety between car types. 'Car Specific FFB Mult' is a value that should be adjusted in combination with the clipping tool. While it is important to keeping smoothing to a minimum for the most 'detail', it is not unreasonable to add a significant amount of smoothing (values above 10) for some vehicles. This is highly dependent on the vehicle selected - the Skip Barber 2013, for example, communicates more surface detail with FFB Smoothing at max (32) than the BMW M with FFB Smoothing at 0. rFactor 2 has the ability to provide a 'raw' force feedback signal that can generate significant mechanical noise on some wheel bases, which can be reduced through a combination of lower FEI values (belt-drive bases) / higher INT values (direct-drive bases) and higher FFB Smoothing values (rFactor 2 menu). ![]() The settings for the CSL DD / Gran Turismo DD Pro are suitable for 5 Nm and 8 Nm (Boost Kit 180)
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